Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Rwanda Countryside

For those of you wondering whether Ken would ever figure out his digital camera, RELAX. You will not be subjected to mere words for the entire ramblings of this blog.
With less than 36 hours with my feet on the ground, we set off for Gisenyi and Lake Kivu. But not before a scavenger hunt for gas. We drive station-to-station. It's not exactly clear what causes their energy shortage. A few months back it could be blamed on political unrest in Kenya. Now it seems just poor logistics. At last we find one station crammed with mini-buses, moto-taxi's, etc. Somehow we inch our way into the chaos.... and wait. No point in being frustrated. It's all part of the experience.
Nicknamed "Land of a Thousand Hills," Rwanda is truly beautiful. Verdant hillsides of lush, tropical vegetation. Small, subsistence farmers clinging to the hillsides. Steep slopes intensively farmed with banana, beans, cassava and yes coffee. At last a real coffee farm. A wee, little one, but still the real deal (sorry, no picture). More than hills really, the only thing putting them into perspective is the backdrop of volcano cones towering above. We drive and drive and drive twisting and turning our way up one hillside and down another. Curiously, many roads skirt the ridge line with steep slopes on either side. It's an amazing panorama.
The drive too is an adventure. Not what we might be use to when it comes to highways, all roadways are two lanes, not that anyone is sticking to that convention. All are paved, and while we encounter potholes regularly, I'm told these are some of the best roads in East Africa. What I can't get over are the number of people... everywhere... walking. Seemingly endless streams of pedestrians on remote stretches, climbing steep inclines. Some carry parcels on their heads. Some women with infants strapped to their backs. Some in amazing, vibrant dress with headscarves. All walking... walking... walking... We roll along passing trucks belching diesel exhaust and dodging the endless procession.

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